Doctoral Dissertation Research: Globalization, Migrant Workers, and the Changing Textile and Clothing Industry

University Of North Carolina At Chapel Hill, Chapel Hill NC

Investigators

Abstract

This doctoral dissertation research project seeks to investigate the role played by migrants in the increasingly globalized textile and clothing (T&C) industry. The project will contribute to a better understanding of the complex interaction between economic globalization and labor migration, as well as flows of capital, and commodities, by considering the role of Chinese migrants in maintaining Italy's clothing industry. Italy is well-regarded in the T&C industry for its brand of fine clothing, and has become the largest host of Chinese immigrants in Europe, where these skilled migrants and entrepreneurs have become key to its T&C industry. It therefore provides an opportunity for the investigation of the role of immigrants in the maintenance of an industry of national importance. The influx of Chinese migrants has brought about a restructuring of the T&C industry as Chinese firms, operating locally and often in collaboration with Italian ones, are increasingly used to "in-source" production as an alternative to out-sourcing it to China. Specifically, this project seeks to understand the positions that Chinese apparel firms occupy in the Italian T&C production network. In particular, it will identify the major reasons why Italian firms are willing to conduct transactions with local Chinese firms, instead of directly outsourcing to China. It also considers the extent to which the competitiveness of Chinese apparel firms is supported by a variety of ethnic business networks in Italy, and by migrant workers and fabrics from China. Methodologies include surveys, interviews, and participatory mapping exercises with entrepreneurs in Italy and in China. This research will contribute to the fields of globalization, migrations studies and economic geography. The research will inform new theories on in-sourcing and questions about the sustainability of assembly production in high-cost and high-value regions, which is of interest to industrialists and policy makers. Academic dissemination and outreach presentations of this research are planned. As a Doctoral Dissertation Research Improvement award, this award also will provide support to enable a promising student to establish a strong independent research career.