Evolution of Rip Currents and Morphology: Field Experiments and Numerical Modeling

Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey CA

Investigators

Abstract

Thornton 0136882 Data from the RIPEX program will be extensively analyzed and archived. Various hypotheses concerning rip current strength and unsteadiness, as well as the instability of the nearshore shear current, will be tested using these data and a calibrated version of the Delft3D model. ARGUS systems will be used to monitor two sites within Monterey Bay while offshore waves are monitored with wave rider buoys. Knowing the changes in morphology and incoming wave spectra over a two year period, the PIs will test the hypothesis that rip spacing is dependent upon the bandwidth of the forcing spectrum. Delft3D will also be used to model the beach evolution.